The Fashion Industry's Shift Away from PFAS

New Regulations on PFAS:
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The fashion industry is adapting to regulations targeting PFAS, chemicals used for water and stain resistance in clothing.

What are PFAS?:
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PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are durable chemicals linked to health issues, including cancer and reproductive problems. They are known as "forever chemicals" due to their persistence in the environment and human body.

Legislative Actions:
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The U.S. EPA is intensifying research on PFAS to understand the health risks better.
- States like California and Maine are at the forefront, implementing reporting requirements and bans on PFAS in products.

California’s Ban:
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From 2025, California will prohibit textiles with PFAS levels above 100 parts per million, urging brands to seek safer alternatives.

Industry Impact:
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Outdoor and performance wear brands, which rely heavily on PFAS for product features, are most affected.
- Brands such as Salomon and Keen have transitioned to PFAS-free products, demonstrating industry leadership.
- Keen’s detailed journey to eliminate PFAS, shared in its "The Road to PFAS Free" report, illuminates the challenges and pathways to becoming PFAS-free.

Retailer Actions:
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REI, a major outdoor retailer, will start banning products containing PFAS this fall, signaling a market shift towards safer consumer products.

Looking Ahead:
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Legislation and growing consumer awareness are driving significant changes in the fashion industry, leading to more transparency and a shift towards safer, sustainable practices.

Source: Glossy

Synthetic Textiles

Synthetic textiles have infiltrated the fashion industry, affecting not just sweaters, but various apparel categories. The rise of synthetic fibers like polyester and acrylic, derived from petroleum or coal-based chemicals, stems from cost-cutting measures by brands. While economically advantageous for manufacturers, the prevalence of synthetics raises environmental concerns and compromises garment quality.

Once dominated by natural materials like wool and cashmere renowned for durability and luxury, knitwear now often blends synthetics, diluting authenticity and performance. To ensure quality, consumers should prioritize natural fibers and seek certifications for responsible sourcing and production practices.

While synthetic blends contribute to pilling issues, proper care can mitigate them. Investing in garments made from premium natural fibers like superfine merino wool offers superior alternatives. Affordable options from brands like Uniqlo still provide 100% natural fiber sweaters, emphasizing the value of durable wardrobe staples.

In summary, the decline in knitwear quality results from synthetic fiber prevalence, driven by economic and consumer shifts. By favoring natural materials and responsible purchasing, consumers can support sustainability and longevity in clothing choices.

Source: Fashionista

Earth Day

Explore Eco-Friendly Fashion with These Industry Insights on How to Make a Difference:

Shop Sustainably
Look for fashion brands that prioritize sustainability, use eco-friendly materials and practices, and have a commitment to ethical manufacturing.

Buy Second-Hand
Consider shopping at second-hand stores, thrift shops, or consignment shops. This helps reduce the amount of waste that goes into landfills and supports a circular economy.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Consider the lifecycle of the clothes you buy and try to extend their lifespan. Repair clothes that are damaged, upcycle old clothes into new items, and recycle clothes that can no longer be worn.

Invest in Quality
Buy clothes that are made to last and made with quality materials. This can help reduce the number of clothes you need to buy over time.

Wash Clothes Sustainably
Use cold water and eco-friendly detergents when washing clothes. Air dry clothes instead of using a dryer, which can save energy and extend the lifespan of clothes.

Consider Your Carbon Footprint
Choose clothes that are made closer to home to reduce transportation emissions. Alternatively, choose brands that use renewable energy or carbon offsetting to minimize their environmental impact.

Remember, small changes can make a big impact!

The Resurgence of the Resale Market: A Sustainable Future for Fashion

A recent report unveils a remarkable projection: the global fashion resale market is on track to expand by 127% by 2026, outpacing the broader retail clothing sector by threefold. This surge is largely driven by a mounting consumer and investor appetite for sustainable apparel alternatives, signaling a shift towards more environmentally friendly shopping habits.

A significant driver of this trend is the enthusiastic adoption of pre-loved fashion by younger generations. An impressive 62% of Gen Z and Millennials report a preference for exploring second-hand options before considering the purchase of new items. This demographic's openness to pre-loved fashion underscores a broader shift in consumer values towards sustainability and ethical consumption.

The ascent of online marketplaces has played a crucial role in this shift, making it more convenient than ever to access pre-loved fashion. Compared to just five years ago, these digital platforms have dramatically simplified the process of buying and selling second-hand items, connecting eco-conscious buyers and sellers across the globe.

Understanding Greenwashing: How to Spot and Avoid It

Greenwashing is a term that's gaining traction, especially in discussions about environmental sustainability. But what exactly does it mean? At its core, greenwashing is when a company gives itself an eco-friendly image through marketing and PR efforts without making genuine or significant contributions to environmental sustainability. This can mislead consumers who are trying to make environmentally responsible choices.

As sustainability becomes a more prominent trend, the distinction between authentic and superficial efforts is crucial. Many brands are indeed innovating and adjusting their production methods to be more sustainable. However, some exploit the term "sustainable" as a mere marketing tool to attract eco-conscious customers without implementing meaningful changes.

To sidestep this issue and truly support sustainable practices, look for brands that provide detailed, transparent information about their sustainability efforts. Here are some certifications and standards to watch for that can indicate a genuine commitment to sustainability:

Fairtrade: Ensures fair treatment and compensation for producers and workers in developing countries.

US EPA's Safer Choice: Recognizes products with safer chemical ingredients.

GreenSeal: Certifies products and services that meet rigorous, science-based environmental standards.

Greenguard: Certifies products with low chemical emissions, improving indoor air quality.

SEAL: Awards businesses and products that meet environmental sustainability standards.

OEKO-TEX Standard: Tests textiles for harmful substances to ensure safety and environmental compatibility.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): A leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria.

Additionally, consider supporting companies that have earned B Corporation Certification. These businesses have undergone a thorough evaluation to meet stringent standards of social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency.

By choosing to support companies that are truly committed to making a positive environmental impact, consumers can avoid the greenwashing trap and contribute to a more sustainable future.

Source: Arch Digest

Embracing Sustainable Development

The fashion industry stands on the brink of a revolution, with digital fashion emerging as a key player in the move towards sustainability. Digital fashion — encompassing A/R filters, direct-to-avatar clothing, gaming skins, and more — presents an innovative approach to reducing the environmental footprint of fashion production and consumption.

Digital Fashion: A Path to Sustainability

Digital fashion offers a twofold advantage in the quest for sustainability: it eliminates physical waste in the production phase and significantly reduces waste during the sampling process. This innovative approach not only conserves materials but also paves the way for a more creative and less resource-intensive design process.

Guiding the Way with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), crafted by the United Nations, serve as a comprehensive framework for industries, including fashion, to contribute to a more sustainable future. These 17 goals aim to eradicate poverty, protect the environment, and ensure prosperity for all. The UN has pinpointed four goals specifically relevant to the fashion industry:

  • SDG 4: Quality Education — Promoting inclusive and equitable quality education and lifelong learning opportunities.

  • SDG 9: Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure — Building resilient infrastructure, promoting sustainable industrialization, and fostering innovation.

  • SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production — Ensuring sustainable consumption and production patterns.

  • SDG 13: Climate Action — Taking urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts.

The Circular Fashion System: A Goal Within Reach

The circular fashion system advocates for minimizing waste and making the most of existing resources. This approach encourages improvements in materials, processes, and consumption habits, aligning with the overarching aim of the SDGs.

Despite the fashion industry's significant distance from fully achieving these goals, a multitude of initiatives can contribute to a more sustainable system. These include adopting environmental policies, embracing a circular economy, leveraging digital design, digitalizing production processes, and encouraging recycling, repairing, and reusing. Moreover, raising consumer awareness about the impact of their fashion choices is crucial.

A Collective Effort for a Sustainable Future

Achieving sustainability in the fashion industry is no small feat and requires a collaborative effort. There is no single solution, but through combined efforts — including embracing digital fashion innovations — we can make significant strides towards a sustainable fashion system. By supporting initiatives that align with the SDGs and adopting circular fashion principles, we can collectively work towards a more sustainable, equitable, and prosperous future.

Exploring the Circular Economy: Redefining Our Approach to Sustainability

Have you heard about the circular economy? It's not just a buzzword; it's a transformative concept that presents a new paradigm for how we design, produce, and utilize goods while ensuring we stay within the limits of our planet's resources.

At its core, the circular economy seeks to shift away from the linear "take-make-dispose" model towards a regenerative system that promotes sustainability and resilience. It involves everyone and everything: businesses, governments, and individuals, as well as our cities, products, and job practices.

The Principles of the Circular Economy

The circular economy operates on several key principles:

  1. Designing Out Waste and Pollution: Rather than creating products with a limited lifespan and a one-way journey to the landfill, the circular economy encourages designing products with longevity in mind. This involves innovative design strategies that prioritize durability, repairability, and recyclability, thereby minimizing waste and pollution throughout the product lifecycle.

  2. Keeping Products and Materials in Use: In a circular economy, the goal is to maximize the utilization of resources by keeping products and materials in circulation for as long as possible. This includes strategies such as repair, refurbishment, remanufacturing, and recycling, which extend the lifespan of products and reduce the need for virgin materials.

  3. Regenerating Natural Systems: Beyond simply minimizing harm, the circular economy aims to actively regenerate and restore natural systems. This involves adopting regenerative practices that promote biodiversity, enhance soil health, and restore ecosystems, thereby replenishing the resources upon which our economy depends.

Embracing the Circular Economy

Transitioning to a circular economy requires a concerted effort from all stakeholders. Businesses must rethink their production processes and business models to prioritize sustainability and resource efficiency. Governments play a crucial role in creating enabling policies and regulations that support circular practices and incentivize innovation. And as consumers, we have the power to drive demand for circular products and services through our purchasing choices and behaviors.

A Path to Innovation and Resilience

Embracing the circular economy isn't just about reducing waste; it's about unlocking new opportunities for innovation, collaboration, and resilience. By reimagining our relationship with resources and embracing circular principles, we have the potential to create a more sustainable, prosperous, and equitable future for all.

So, let's each take steps towards embracing the circular economy—where waste is minimized, resources are maximized, and our planet thrives for generations to come.

Myths About Ethical & Sustainable Fashion

MYTH: Buying from "eco-conscious" or "sustainable" brands is the best way to reduce your fashion footprint.

TRUTH: To minimize your fashion footprint, focus on buying fewer items. Make the most of your current wardrobe by mending or altering old garments, restyling tired pieces, and trading items with friends or through clothing swaps. If purchasing new, opt for second-hand items. Some companies offer repair programs, like Patagonia's "Worn Wear," or assist in reselling worn items. While researching sustainable brands is helpful, buying new should be the last resort, not the first option.

MYTH: Luxury fashion is inherently more sustainable than fast fashion.

TRUTH: Spending on luxury fashion doesn't guarantee sustainability. Although some luxury brands promote eco-friendly initiatives, the industry as a whole has work to do. Fashion weeks, for example, have significant carbon footprints. Despite efforts by some luxury brands, sustainability remains a challenge.

MYTH: The more expensive the garment, the less likely workers have been exploited.

TRUTH: Workers' rights and conditions can be exploitative across all price points. Many mid-priced and premium labels use the same factories as fast fashion brands. The cost of a garment doesn't ensure fair wages for workers.

MYTH: Donating old clothes is a sustainable way to clean out your closet.

TRUTH: Donated clothes often end up in developing countries' resale markets or landfills. Only a small percentage is sold, and the excess contributes to waste issues. Greenwashing terms like "sustainability" can mislead consumers, and recycling textiles is challenging due to fabric blends and processes.

MYTH: Most clothes can be recycled.

TRUTH: Textile recycling faces challenges, including fabric blends and processes. Only a fraction of clothing is recycled into new garments. "Recycling" often results in downcycling, with garments repurposed for insulation or carpets, rather than upcycling into new clothes.

MYTH: Repairing cheap clothes isn't worthwhile.

TRUTH: Mending fast fashion items can reduce your carbon footprint. Learning basic repairs, such as replacing buttons or fixing zippers, can extend the lifespan of your clothes and reduce waste.

MYTH: Your clothes are from the country listed on the tag.

TRUTH: Garments may be assembled in one country but sourced and manufactured globally. Labels often don't disclose the full supply chain. Encouraging transparency, initiatives like #whomademyclothes? promote accountability and traceability in fashion production.

Source:
From an article produced by CNN Style in partnership with Fashion Revolution, an international non-profit campaigning for a clean, safe, fair, transparent and accountable fashion industry.

https://cnn.it/3lHnZSS

Embracing Eco-Friendly Alternatives: Phasing Out Plastics in Fashion

In response to the growing demand for sustainability, fashion companies are seeking eco-friendly alternatives to plastics for items like hangers and buttons. While these alternatives come at a higher cost currently, they represent a crucial step towards a greener future.

Several companies are leading the charge in offering sustainable options:

  1. Blue: Launching hangers made from recycled marine plastics.

  2. Bioglitter: Providing plant-based, biodegradable glitter alternatives.

  3. Oceanworks: Connecting brands with ocean plastic waste for various trims and accessories.

  4. Corozo Buttons: Supplying buttons, zipper pulls, and tags made from natural corozo.

  5. Knopf Budke: Offering eco-friendly materials like cellulose, hemp, coconut shells, and rice husks.

  6. Braiform: Developing plastic-free versions of hangers for sustainable packaging.

Moreover, reuse programs are gaining popularity, reducing plastic waste and carbon emissions.

By prioritizing eco-friendly materials and embracing reuse initiatives, fashion brands can significantly reduce their environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable future.

Source: Vogue Business

Positioning Your Brand for the Conscious Consumer

With consumers increasingly prioritizing sustainability, retailers across the spectrum, from discount to luxury labels, are adapting to appeal to this conscientious demographic.

In the realm of apparel, the focus is on recycled or upcycled fabrics, biodegradable materials, water-saving techniques, and exploring resale platforms to extend product lifespan.

The heightened demand for sustainability and transparency is compelling brands to rethink their positioning. Consumers now grasp the true environmental costs of products and are deliberate in their purchases, marking a notable shift in recent years. Brands that openly communicate their environmental and societal impacts tend to fare better than those that do not.

Today's consumers, especially Gen Z, seek personal connections and shared values with their favorite brands. They readily identify and support authentic initiatives, while calling out inauthentic ones.

Companies adopting resale platforms, refurbishment and repair services, and recycling programs stand out in this landscape. Authenticity and transparency are key factors in building trust and loyalty with consumers.

Source: The Sourcing Journal

Sustainability Standards

For those looking to produce or shop responsibly-made products that meet higher social, ethical and environmental standards, this list is from Nordstrom’s new sustainable fashion line. The terms, however, can be applied to any apparel or home textile product. 

Fair Trade Certified 
Certifies that a product is made according to rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, including both using Fair Trade Certified Cotton and made at a Fair Trade Certified Factory, as it relates to apparel and textiles.

Fair Trade Certified Cotton
Cotton grown on a farm that meets rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, where farmers receive a premium to use for social and economic investments.

Fair Trade Certified Factory (or Sewn)
Factories meet rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, where factory workers receive a premium to use for social and economic investments. Also includes Fair Trade Certified-sewn products.

Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC) certified
A certification that ensures products come from responsibly managed forests that provide environmental, social and economic benefits. FSC certification can apply to wood, paper and forest-based textiles such as rayon, viscose, modal, and lyocell.

Brands That Give Back
With the sale of a product that “gives back,” a gift is made to a nonprofit organization. The gift may be driven by a percent or dollar amount of the net sale or net profit, or maybe a one-for-one donation of a product or other item.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
A strict certification standard that covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading, and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibers. The final products may include but are not limited to, fiber products, yarns, fabrics, clothes, and home textiles. The standard does not set criteria for leather products.

Global Recycled Standard (GRS)
Voluntary certification for products with recycled content, GRS supports accurate labeling, innovation in the use of reclaimed materials, supply chain transparency and better information for consumers. GRS certification can apply to any product that contains at least 20% recycled material and includes environmental, social and chemical aspects.

Hemp
Natural fiber from the fast-growing hemp plant, which requires about half as much water as cotton.

Leather Working Group (LWG)
A multi-stakeholder group including brands and suppliers that are working to improve environmental performance in the leather industry, including leather traceability and water reductions, energy reductions and chemical management at tanneries. Tanneries are rated Audited, Bronze, Silver or Gold.

OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified
Products certified to the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 meet strict limits for regulated and nonregulated chemicals and other substances, including pesticides, carcinogenic colorants, and heavy metals.

Organic Content Standard (OCS)
A certification that uses third-party verification to confirm the amount of organically grown material in a final product.

Organic Cotton
Cotton grown without synthetic chemicals including pesticides, fertilizers and plant-growth regulators.

Organic Linen

Natural fiber from the fast-growing flax plant, linen requires fewer resources than other natural fibers, like cotton, including water. Organic linen uses no chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Recycled Cashmere
Like wool, used cashmere can be mechanically broken down into fibers and then re-spun into yarns to make new garments. This environmentally friendly process saves water and chemicals and can eliminate dye and wastewater.

Recycled Cotton
Typically made by mechanically shredding cotton fabric back down to fibers and then re-spinning into yarn for use, recycled cotton (or reclaimed or regenerated cotton) uses less water and chemicals than standard cotton because it skips the cotton growing process. Recycled cotton can be made from pre- or post-consumer cotton yarn, textiles, and garments, and must be blended with other fibers to maintain strength and durability.

Recycled Nylon
Often made from used fishing nets, recycled nylon diverts waste from landfills and uses fewer resources like water, energy, and petroleum in its production than virgin nylon.

Recycled Polyester (rPET)
A preferred synthetic fabric that can be made from post-consumer plastic like water bottles as well as unusable manufacturing waste and polyester garments. rPET diverts plastic waste from landfills and creates fewer CO2 emissions than virgin polyester in its production.

Recycled Wool
Used wool can be mechanically broken down into fibers and then re-spun into yarns to make new garments. This environmentally friendly process saves water and chemicals and can eliminate dye and wastewater.

REPREVE® nylon
Recycled nylon made from post-industrial recycled fiber waste.

REPREVE® polyester
A recycled polyester made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic bottles.

Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
A certification that aims to ensure that down and feathers come from animals that have not been subjected to any unnecessary harm. The RDS supports the Five Freedoms of animals.

Responsible Wool Standard
A voluntary global standard that addresses the welfare of sheep and of the land they graze on. On farms, the certification ensures that sheep are treated with respect to their Five Freedoms and that best practices are used in the management and protection of the land. Through the processing stages, certification ensures that wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked.

SeaCell lyocell
SeaCell lyocell is made from renewable seaweed embedded within cellulose, in a closed-loop process.

Tencel lyocell and modal
Tencel lyocell and modal fabrics are produced through closed-loop, environmentally responsible processes from sustainably sourced, FSC-certified wood. Tencel fibers are certified as compostable and biodegradable.

Traceable Down Standard (TDS)
Sometimes known as the Global Traceable Down Standard, this framework of criteria supports animal welfare and maintains traceability requirements from farm to factory to ensure only compliant down and feather material is used in final products.

Worker Empowerment Program
A general term for programs that aim to offer education and development resources for women and men working in global supply chains.

1% for the Planet® Companies and brands that are members of 1% for the Planet have committed to donating 1% of annual sales to nonprofit partners in support of environmental solutions.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton
BCI is working to make more sustainable cotton available as a commodity. BCI cotton is grown using less water, less fertilizer, and fewer pesticides, while also improving the lives of farmers by increasing cotton crop yields.

bluesign® certified material
bluesign® certified materials can include textiles, zippers, buttons and other parts of products. The bluesign® technologies group monitors each step of the product value chain to improve water, energy, and chemical use; support worker health and safety; implement strict standards for factory water and air emissions, and maintain strict chemical safety requirements.

bluesign® certified product
The bluesign® technologies group monitors each step of the product value chain to improve water, energy, and chemical use; support worker health and safety; implement strict standards for factory water and air emissions, and maintain strict chemical safety requirements. All components of a bluesign® certified product meet these high standards.

BSR HERproject
HERproject is a worker empowerment program led by the nonprofit BSR (Business for Social Responsibility) in partnership with in-country organizations, which provides trainings for women working in global apparel factories. HERproject training programs focus on topics including financial literacy, health and hygiene and creating safe and respectful workplaces for women.

Cradle to Cradle Certified (C2C)
A product standard that helps designers and manufacturers consider five quality categories: material health, material reutilization, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship and social fairness. Certified products are rated Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold or Platinum.

ECONYL®
Regenerated nylon made with recovered nylon waste, such as fishing nets and fabric scraps.

Source: The Chalkboard Mag

3D Printing

3D printing is gaining traction for its versatility in prototyping, cost reduction, and supply chain optimization, while also offering unique customization possibilities and sustainability benefits.

However, integrating 3D fashion printing requires specialized knowledge due to its complexity. While it allows for easy modification of material properties, some brands remain skeptical about its ability to achieve desired aesthetics. Nonetheless, its advantages include consistent, affordable, and on-demand production, facilitating quick adaptation to trends and minimizing overhead inventory costs.

Although widespread adoption of 3D printed fashion in retail is not imminent, it's already making waves in runway shows, showcasing its innovative potential. As technology progresses, it's only a matter of time before 3D printing becomes commonplace across industries, meeting consumer demand for both novelty and sustainability.

Source: Fashion United

Creating A Product Line

Creating a product line requires more than just a vision; it necessitates meticulous planning, education, and collaboration with a team of experts. The process typically begins with the development of a Bill of Materials (BOM) for hardlines or a tech pack for apparel, which serves as a detailed guide for manufacturers to bring the designer's concept to life.

The creation of a BOM or tech pack involves the inclusion of technical flats with precise measurements and other product specifications. These details are crucial as they inform the development of molds or pattern blocks, which are essential for the sampling phase and subsequent production.

Throughout the design process, maintaining a Time and Action (T&A) calendar is imperative to ensure timely delivery of the product for buyers to purchase at market and for editors to feature ahead of market for consumer awareness.

Key components needed to kickstart the process include:

  1. BOM or Tech Pack: Detailed documentation outlining product specifications.

  2. Reference Samples: Existing samples serving as a reference for design and quality standards.

  3. Quality Samples: Samples produced during the sampling phase to assess design and manufacturing quality.

  4. Target Cost: Established budgetary constraints guiding the development process.

  5. Target Delivery: Defined timelines for product delivery aligning with market demands and consumer expectations.