Synthetic Textiles

Synthetic textiles have infiltrated the fashion industry, affecting not just sweaters, but various apparel categories. The rise of synthetic fibers like polyester and acrylic, derived from petroleum or coal-based chemicals, stems from cost-cutting measures by brands. While economically advantageous for manufacturers, the prevalence of synthetics raises environmental concerns and compromises garment quality.

Once dominated by natural materials like wool and cashmere renowned for durability and luxury, knitwear now often blends synthetics, diluting authenticity and performance. To ensure quality, consumers should prioritize natural fibers and seek certifications for responsible sourcing and production practices.

While synthetic blends contribute to pilling issues, proper care can mitigate them. Investing in garments made from premium natural fibers like superfine merino wool offers superior alternatives. Affordable options from brands like Uniqlo still provide 100% natural fiber sweaters, emphasizing the value of durable wardrobe staples.

In summary, the decline in knitwear quality results from synthetic fiber prevalence, driven by economic and consumer shifts. By favoring natural materials and responsible purchasing, consumers can support sustainability and longevity in clothing choices.

Source: Fashionista

What is Mycelium?⁠

Mycelium is emerging as a sustainable alternative to traditional materials like leather, offering a third category beyond animal-based or synthetic plastics: it stands out as a unique biomaterial. This option is particularly appealing for brands that are unwilling to compromise on high quality or aesthetics.

Beyond its use in sustainable products, mycelium plays a vital role in combating climate change. Its network extends over 300 miles into the Earth's crust, showcasing a remarkable capacity for absorbing and decomposing hydrocarbons. This functionality positions it as a pivotal component of the forest ecosystem, where it performs several critical tasks:

Toxin Decomposition: Mycelium can break down harmful toxins, safeguarding the soil and surrounding plant life.

Carbon Sequestration: It is highly effective at capturing carbon, thus preventing climate-warming carbon dioxide from reaching the atmosphere. Remarkably, some fungi can store up to 70 percent more carbon in the soil than other methods.

Nutrient Creation: Mycelium can convert some of the stored carbon into carbohydrates, enriching the soil. These nutrients foster a more diverse range of plant and animal life, fortifying the Earth's defenses against environmental damage.

Source: BBC

Embracing Sustainable Development

The fashion industry stands on the brink of a revolution, with digital fashion emerging as a key player in the move towards sustainability. Digital fashion — encompassing A/R filters, direct-to-avatar clothing, gaming skins, and more — presents an innovative approach to reducing the environmental footprint of fashion production and consumption.

Digital Fashion: A Path to Sustainability

Digital fashion offers a twofold advantage in the quest for sustainability: it eliminates physical waste in the production phase and significantly reduces waste during the sampling process. This innovative approach not only conserves materials but also paves the way for a more creative and less resource-intensive design process.

Guiding the Way with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), crafted by the United Nations, serve as a comprehensive framework for industries, including fashion, to contribute to a more sustainable future. These 17 goals aim to eradicate poverty, protect the environment, and ensure prosperity for all. The UN has pinpointed four goals specifically relevant to the fashion industry:

• SDG 4: Quality Education — Promoting inclusive and equitable quality education and lifelong learning opportunities.

• SDG 9: Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure — Building resilient infrastructure, promoting sustainable industrialization, and fostering innovation.

• SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production — Ensuring sustainable consumption and production patterns.

• SDG 13: Climate Action — Taking urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts.

The Circular Fashion System: A Goal Within Reach

The circular fashion system advocates for minimizing waste and making the most of existing resources. This approach encourages improvements in materials, processes, and consumption habits, aligning with the overarching aim of the SDGs.

Despite the fashion industry's significant distance from fully achieving these goals, a multitude of initiatives can contribute to a more sustainable system. These include adopting environmental policies, embracing a circular economy, leveraging digital design, digitalizing production processes, and encouraging recycling, repairing, and reusing. Moreover, raising consumer awareness about the impact of their fashion choices is crucial.

A Collective Effort for a Sustainable Future

Achieving sustainability in the fashion industry is no small feat and requires a collaborative effort. There is no single solution, but through combined efforts — including embracing digital fashion innovations — we can make significant strides towards a sustainable fashion system. By supporting initiatives that align with the SDGs and adopting circular fashion principles, we can collectively work towards a more sustainable, equitable, and prosperous future.

Exploring the Circular Economy: Redefining Our Approach to Sustainability

Have you heard about the circular economy? It's not just a buzzword; it's a transformative concept that presents a new paradigm for how we design, produce, and utilize goods while ensuring we stay within the limits of our planet's resources.

At its core, the circular economy seeks to shift away from the linear "take-make-dispose" model towards a regenerative system that promotes sustainability and resilience. It involves everyone and everything: businesses, governments, and individuals, as well as our cities, products, and job practices.

The Principles of the Circular Economy

The circular economy operates on several key principles:

1. Designing Out Waste and Pollution: Rather than creating products with a limited lifespan and a one-way journey to the landfill, the circular economy encourages designing products with longevity in mind. This involves innovative design strategies that prioritize durability, repairability, and recyclability, thereby minimizing waste and pollution throughout the product lifecycle.

2. Keeping Products and Materials in Use: In a circular economy, the goal is to maximize the utilization of resources by keeping products and materials in circulation for as long as possible. This includes strategies such as repair, refurbishment, remanufacturing, and recycling, which extend the lifespan of products and reduce the need for virgin materials.

3. Regenerating Natural Systems: Beyond simply minimizing harm, the circular economy aims to actively regenerate and restore natural systems. This involves adopting regenerative practices that promote biodiversity, enhance soil health, and restore ecosystems, thereby replenishing the resources upon which our economy depends.

Embracing the Circular Economy

Transitioning to a circular economy requires a concerted effort from all stakeholders. Businesses must rethink their production processes and business models to prioritize sustainability and resource efficiency. Governments play a crucial role in creating enabling policies and regulations that support circular practices and incentivize innovation. And as consumers, we have the power to drive demand for circular products and services through our purchasing choices and behaviors.

A Path to Innovation and Resilience

Embracing the circular economy isn't just about reducing waste; it's about unlocking new opportunities for innovation, collaboration, and resilience. By reimagining our relationship with resources and embracing circular principles, we have the potential to create a more sustainable, prosperous, and equitable future for all.

So, let's each take steps towards embracing the circular economy—where waste is minimized, resources are maximized, and our planet thrives for generations to come.

Embracing Eco-Friendly Alternatives: Phasing Out Plastics in Fashion

In response to the growing demand for sustainability, fashion companies are seeking eco-friendly alternatives to plastics for items like hangers and buttons. While these alternatives come at a higher cost currently, they represent a crucial step towards a greener future.

Several companies are leading the charge in offering sustainable options:

1. Blue: Launching hangers made from recycled marine plastics.

2. Bioglitter: Providing plant-based, biodegradable glitter alternatives.

3. Oceanworks: Connecting brands with ocean plastic waste for various trims and accessories.

4. Corozo Buttons: Supplying buttons, zipper pulls, and tags made from natural corozo.

5. Knopf Budke: Offering eco-friendly materials like cellulose, hemp, coconut shells, and rice husks.

6. Braiform: Developing plastic-free versions of hangers for sustainable packaging.

Moreover, reuse programs are gaining popularity, reducing plastic waste and carbon emissions.

By prioritizing eco-friendly materials and embracing reuse initiatives, fashion brands can significantly reduce their environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable future.

Source: Vogue Business

Sustainability Standards

For those looking to produce or shop responsibly-made products that meet higher social, ethical and environmental standards, this list is from Nordstrom’s new sustainable fashion line. The terms, however, can be applied to any apparel or home textile product. 

Fair Trade Certified 
Certifies that a product is made according to rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, including both using Fair Trade Certified Cotton and made at a Fair Trade Certified Factory, as it relates to apparel and textiles.

Fair Trade Certified Cotton
Cotton grown on a farm that meets rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, where farmers receive a premium to use for social and economic investments.

Fair Trade Certified Factory (or Sewn)
Factories meet rigorous social, environmental and economic standards, where factory workers receive a premium to use for social and economic investments. Also includes Fair Trade Certified-sewn products.

Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC) certified
A certification that ensures products come from responsibly managed forests that provide environmental, social and economic benefits. FSC certification can apply to wood, paper and forest-based textiles such as rayon, viscose, modal, and lyocell.

Brands That Give Back
With the sale of a product that “gives back,” a gift is made to a nonprofit organization. The gift may be driven by a percent or dollar amount of the net sale or net profit, or maybe a one-for-one donation of a product or other item.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
A strict certification standard that covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading, and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibers. The final products may include but are not limited to, fiber products, yarns, fabrics, clothes, and home textiles. The standard does not set criteria for leather products.

Global Recycled Standard (GRS)
Voluntary certification for products with recycled content, GRS supports accurate labeling, innovation in the use of reclaimed materials, supply chain transparency and better information for consumers. GRS certification can apply to any product that contains at least 20% recycled material and includes environmental, social and chemical aspects.

Hemp
Natural fiber from the fast-growing hemp plant, which requires about half as much water as cotton.

Leather Working Group (LWG)
A multi-stakeholder group including brands and suppliers that are working to improve environmental performance in the leather industry, including leather traceability and water reductions, energy reductions and chemical management at tanneries. Tanneries are rated Audited, Bronze, Silver or Gold.

OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified
Products certified to the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 meet strict limits for regulated and nonregulated chemicals and other substances, including pesticides, carcinogenic colorants, and heavy metals.

Organic Content Standard (OCS)
A certification that uses third-party verification to confirm the amount of organically grown material in a final product.

Organic Cotton
Cotton grown without synthetic chemicals including pesticides, fertilizers and plant-growth regulators.

Organic Linen

Natural fiber from the fast-growing flax plant, linen requires fewer resources than other natural fibers, like cotton, including water. Organic linen uses no chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Recycled Cashmere
Like wool, used cashmere can be mechanically broken down into fibers and then re-spun into yarns to make new garments. This environmentally friendly process saves water and chemicals and can eliminate dye and wastewater.

Recycled Cotton
Typically made by mechanically shredding cotton fabric back down to fibers and then re-spinning into yarn for use, recycled cotton (or reclaimed or regenerated cotton) uses less water and chemicals than standard cotton because it skips the cotton growing process. Recycled cotton can be made from pre- or post-consumer cotton yarn, textiles, and garments, and must be blended with other fibers to maintain strength and durability.

Recycled Nylon
Often made from used fishing nets, recycled nylon diverts waste from landfills and uses fewer resources like water, energy, and petroleum in its production than virgin nylon.

Recycled Polyester (rPET)
A preferred synthetic fabric that can be made from post-consumer plastic like water bottles as well as unusable manufacturing waste and polyester garments. rPET diverts plastic waste from landfills and creates fewer CO2 emissions than virgin polyester in its production.

Recycled Wool
Used wool can be mechanically broken down into fibers and then re-spun into yarns to make new garments. This environmentally friendly process saves water and chemicals and can eliminate dye and wastewater.

REPREVE® nylon
Recycled nylon made from post-industrial recycled fiber waste.

REPREVE® polyester
A recycled polyester made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic bottles.

Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
A certification that aims to ensure that down and feathers come from animals that have not been subjected to any unnecessary harm. The RDS supports the Five Freedoms of animals.

Responsible Wool Standard
A voluntary global standard that addresses the welfare of sheep and of the land they graze on. On farms, the certification ensures that sheep are treated with respect to their Five Freedoms and that best practices are used in the management and protection of the land. Through the processing stages, certification ensures that wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked.

SeaCell lyocell
SeaCell lyocell is made from renewable seaweed embedded within cellulose, in a closed-loop process.

Tencel lyocell and modal
Tencel lyocell and modal fabrics are produced through closed-loop, environmentally responsible processes from sustainably sourced, FSC-certified wood. Tencel fibers are certified as compostable and biodegradable.

Traceable Down Standard (TDS)
Sometimes known as the Global Traceable Down Standard, this framework of criteria supports animal welfare and maintains traceability requirements from farm to factory to ensure only compliant down and feather material is used in final products.

Worker Empowerment Program
A general term for programs that aim to offer education and development resources for women and men working in global supply chains.

1% for the Planet® Companies and brands that are members of 1% for the Planet have committed to donating 1% of annual sales to nonprofit partners in support of environmental solutions.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton
BCI is working to make more sustainable cotton available as a commodity. BCI cotton is grown using less water, less fertilizer, and fewer pesticides, while also improving the lives of farmers by increasing cotton crop yields.

bluesign® certified material
bluesign® certified materials can include textiles, zippers, buttons and other parts of products. The bluesign® technologies group monitors each step of the product value chain to improve water, energy, and chemical use; support worker health and safety; implement strict standards for factory water and air emissions, and maintain strict chemical safety requirements.

bluesign® certified product
The bluesign® technologies group monitors each step of the product value chain to improve water, energy, and chemical use; support worker health and safety; implement strict standards for factory water and air emissions, and maintain strict chemical safety requirements. All components of a bluesign® certified product meet these high standards.

BSR HERproject
HERproject is a worker empowerment program led by the nonprofit BSR (Business for Social Responsibility) in partnership with in-country organizations, which provides trainings for women working in global apparel factories. HERproject training programs focus on topics including financial literacy, health and hygiene and creating safe and respectful workplaces for women.

Cradle to Cradle Certified (C2C)
A product standard that helps designers and manufacturers consider five quality categories: material health, material reutilization, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship and social fairness. Certified products are rated Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold or Platinum.

ECONYL®
Regenerated nylon made with recovered nylon waste, such as fishing nets and fabric scraps.

Source: The Chalkboard Mag

Addressing Plastic Pollution in Fashion

Plastic dominates over half of global clothing production, prompting a search for sustainable alternatives. While plant-derived fibers like rayon offer promise, synthetic materials like nylon and polyester have become ubiquitous for their utility and cost-effectiveness.

However, reliance on synthetics poses environmental challenges. Cotton, though a natural alternative, comes with its own drawbacks such as water-intensive cultivation and limited functionality compared to synthetics.

The proliferation of plastic production leads to significant waste, with plastics ending up in landfills or incinerated, releasing harmful microfibers into the environment. To combat this, it's essential to prioritize traceable supply chains, embrace recycled materials, and promote product longevity.

Addressing the plastic pollution issue requires a multifaceted approach, including advocating for second-hand clothing, supporting sustainable brands, and investing in durable products. Legislative measures can also play a role, but vigilance is necessary to ensure effectiveness.

Innovations within the industry, coupled with collaborative efforts, offer hope for a sustainable future. It's crucial for companies to work together towards meaningful change, ultimately benefiting both the environment and society.

Source: The Guardian

Transforming Supply Chains for Sustainability

Sustainability transcends material choices; it encompasses supply chain transformations that significantly reduce carbon footprints. Centralizing a brand's entire supply chain, from fiber production to manufacturing, can minimize emissions associated with transporting goods between facilities.

Shipping not only emits carbon but also adds significant costs. Instead of compromising on materials, streamlining processes in fewer locations can enhance quality while reducing environmental impact. While this may not be feasible for all brands, it's a crucial consideration in material sourcing and factory selection.

Many brands are recognizing the importance of sustainability throughout their supply chains, from sourcing materials to manufacturing and shipping. Despite an increase in brands claiming sustainability, there's been a slowdown in actual progress. Hence, marketing strategies must align with tangible sustainable practices and goals, even if not immediately visible to consumers. Ultimately, the aim is to create a world that future generations can inherit with pride.

Source: Glossy

3D Printing

3D printing is gaining traction for its versatility in prototyping, cost reduction, and supply chain optimization, while also offering unique customization possibilities and sustainability benefits.

However, integrating 3D fashion printing requires specialized knowledge due to its complexity. While it allows for easy modification of material properties, some brands remain skeptical about its ability to achieve desired aesthetics. Nonetheless, its advantages include consistent, affordable, and on-demand production, facilitating quick adaptation to trends and minimizing overhead inventory costs.

Although widespread adoption of 3D printed fashion in retail is not imminent, it's already making waves in runway shows, showcasing its innovative potential. As technology progresses, it's only a matter of time before 3D printing becomes commonplace across industries, meeting consumer demand for both novelty and sustainability.

Source: Fashion United

Supply Chain Transparency

Supply chain transparency has become increasingly important in the fashion industry, particularly in light of tragedies like the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh. Fashion Revolution, a non-profit organization, has been at the forefront of advocating for greater transparency and consumer engagement through initiatives like "Who Made My Clothes?"

Since the inaugural Fashion Transparency Index in 2016, which assessed the disclosure practices of 40 major fashion companies, the movement has expanded globally, with over 200 brands now being evaluated. Transparency efforts should extend beyond apparel to include hardgoods, ensuring visibility throughout the supply chain.

For small business owners, achieving transparency requires meticulous oversight at every stage of the process, from design to production. Seeking guidance from experts with relevant expertise can be invaluable, as there are numerous factors to consider. Pre-factory inspections, vendor surveys, and reviews of certifications are essential steps that should not be rushed, despite the initial cost, as they can ultimately save time and money in the long run.

Earth Day Year-Round

This year, The North Face launched a campaign to advocate for Earth Day to be recognized as an official holiday, shutting down its stores and headquarters on April 22. Encouraging both employees and consumers to disconnect and immerse themselves in nature, the initiative aims to foster greater environmental awareness.

Since its inception in 1970, Earth Day has served as a reminder of the importance of environmental stewardship. Despite efforts to reduce consumption in various sectors, the fashion industry continues to experience significant growth, prompting a reevaluation of production methods for sustainability.

Today's businesses must prioritize thoughtful practices, whether through philanthropy or mindful supply chain management. According to research by Cotton Council International and Cotton Incorporated, a majority of Americans acknowledge the need for behavior changes to address environmental challenges.

In any industry, consideration must be given to materials, processes, and usage to minimize impact on the planet. Given the interconnected nature of supply chains, sustainability ensures the availability of resources for the future.

This year's Earth Day campaign, "Protect Our Species," draws attention to the threat posed by microplastic pollution to ecosystems. Synthetic apparel, composed of non-biodegradable fibers like polyester and nylon, contributes to this environmental concern.

Studies conducted by North Carolina State University reveal stark differences in degradation rates between cotton and polyester garments in freshwater and saltwater environments. Such findings underscore the urgency of creating an ecosystem that promotes human well-being while safeguarding the planet's biodiversity.

Source: Fashion United & Sourcing Journal

What is a Tech Pack?

A tech pack serves as the foundational blueprint for manufacturing a product, providing essential information and instructions to manufacturers throughout the production process.

Key components typically included in a tech pack are:

1. Technical sketches detailing the front and back of the product, along with any specific design elements.

2. Construction and sewing details outlining how the product is assembled.

3. Specifications for fabrics, materials, and trims, including information on suppliers if available.

4. Artwork for prints, embroideries, patterns, and labels, if applicable to the product.

5. Fit specifications and comments for prototype, first fit, and second fit samples.

6. Graded specifications by size to ensure consistency across different sizes.

7. Instructions for folding, labeling, and packaging the finished product for shipment.

Creating A Product Line

Creating a product line requires more than just a vision; it necessitates meticulous planning, education, and collaboration with a team of experts. The process typically begins with the development of a Bill of Materials (BOM) for hardlines or a tech pack for apparel, which serves as a detailed guide for manufacturers to bring the designer's concept to life.

The creation of a BOM or tech pack involves the inclusion of technical flats with precise measurements and other product specifications. These details are crucial as they inform the development of molds or pattern blocks, which are essential for the sampling phase and subsequent production.

Throughout the design process, maintaining a Time and Action (T&A) calendar is imperative to ensure timely delivery of the product for buyers to purchase at market and for editors to feature ahead of market for consumer awareness.

Key components needed to kickstart the process include:

1. BOM or Tech Pack: Detailed documentation outlining product specifications.

2. Reference Samples: Existing samples serving as a reference for design and quality standards.

3. Quality Samples: Samples produced during the sampling phase to assess design and manufacturing quality.

4. Target Cost: Established budgetary constraints guiding the development process.

5. Target Delivery: Defined timelines for product delivery aligning with market demands and consumer expectations.